
Tuesday, June 8, 2010 was a grim sorta day. Over the preceding weeks I'd tracked the slow easterly crawl of British Petroleum's oil spill across the blue-green waters of the Gulf, driven in part by an unusual spate of winds from the west. Eventually, I'd decided that there was little chance my trawler Betty Jane would be spared an oily encounter should I leave her in the marina she's called home for several years now, not given the possibility that BP's crude would continue to flow well into August and perhaps beyond. So I checked my boat's vital fluids early Tuesday morning, fired up her engine, coiled her shorepower cord, removed her canvas flybridge cover, and otherwise prepared her for the long sad trip to Miller Marine, a boat yard to the north where a truck will eventually pick her up and transport her to a marina my wife BJ and I've picked out in Jacksonville.
The atmosphere on the docks as I made ready was pensive, inconclusive. Friends and acquaintances wanted to know what I was doing, what my plans were. Most of them were planning to wait a few more days to decide whether to haul out, stay put, or try to run for the safety of more southerly waters. I've always been a tad conservative concerning navigational matters and other marine-related decisions. My take on the whole mess, particularly in light of reports about oiled-in boats I'd got from a friend in Pensacola some few days before, was simple, if none too pleasant. Better safe than sorry!
My friend Ed helped me with Betty's lines just before I pulled out. As I stood on the old girl's flying bridge during the rousing back-and-fill turn that typically puts me square in the fairway and headed in the right direction, I shot a few glances over my left shoulder to see Ed waving goodbye. There are some goodbye gestures you tend to remember and I guess that was one. I waved back and yelled, "Goodbye Ed."

The day itself was misty for starters but soon turned gorgeous, the best the Florida Panhandle has to offer. The sun shown like diamonds on the green depths and white sand guarding the opening of Grand Lagoon. As I crossed into the main channel I could see the Gulf of Mexico over Betty's stern stretching south to a bright steely horizon. The presence of commercial vessels, construction barges with cranes, and what I took to be skimmer boats in the vicinity of Shell Island constituted an unusual sight off the starboard side. As Betty and I toodled along a few memories bobbed inevitably to the surface.
Three decades ago, I worked as a commercial seafarer on the Gulf of Mexico, and I've lived alongside its immense loveliness much of my life. During one period, for a whole five years straight almost, I never once set foot inside a house, living as I did on a Bristol sloop on the fringes of St. Petersburg and working weeks and sometimes months at a time on oil-field supply boats and oceangoing tugs, sometimes plying the Gulf, sometimes not. I remember the whales we used to see from the decks and wheelhouses of those vessels and the giant hammerheads and how we used to go swimming in the evenings sometimes, jumping off bollards and exhaust trunks like kids at a swimming hole. In hundreds and hundreds of feet of water that was clearer than air, bluer than ink.
I especially remember a trip from Tampa to Houston, to load grain for Haiti. One afternoon, myself and another guy were standing at the rear of the Betty Culbreath, a big oceangoing greyhound, in the shelter of a giant towing winch. The weather was atrocious, with heavy seas, white horses for miles, and a gloomy sky. However, the colors, shapes, and power of the scene as we looked aft, off toward the barge we were towing and the miles of emptiness beyond, were indescribably spectacular. "You know," I said to the other guy, as we both stood there semi-stunned by the stormy beauty of it all, "You see stuff out here in the Gulf that you simply can't explain to people ashore. This is magnificent." "Yup," he replied, "It is."

Pelicans are about my favorite sea bird--I love their droll facial expressions and their seeming sense of purpose. And I saw plenty of them diving and flying around on my way for the haul-out at Miller. I saw plenty of dolphins too. They love to ride Betty's bow wave for just a while. Betty's so slow that they soon tire of the modest levels of speedy excitement she's able to provide. The pelican above sort of followed along for a while, long enough for me to snap a picture. The presence of the bird made me wonder. What will happen to all the aquatic birds, dolphins and other animals I was seeing if the oil eventually comes to this part of the Panhandle.

Up in North Bay I came across a long, seemingly unending strip of brown sludge riding the tide line. In light of recent news reports and the periodic oil-spill trajectories put out by NOAA, the stuff was most likely something other than oil but I'm a suspicious sorta of guy, especially when it comes down to promises and pronouncements made by governmental and/or corporate entities. Call me a paranoid, mistrustful, old combat veteran of the Vietnam War, but hey! I found a spot where the strip was comparatively narrow and zipped though as quickly as possible, vaguely wondering the while whether a quick frothy shot of BP sludge might be enough to gum up the raw-water pump on Betty's engine.

Just before turning into the creek that leads up to Millers I passed a fishing boat headed south. The guys onboard waved and I waved back, rather poignantly perhaps. Over the years, I've known shrimpers and commercial fishermen of all sorts, from Texas to Florida. I've worked with a few, too, guys who started out on shrimp boats and found their way into the oil patch or some other commercial line of work. Many of these people were superb boatmen, with biographies that included nothing but boats, boats, and more boats. Seeing this little vessel set me to wondering again. What will happen to all the Gulf's fishermen over the next few years, as well as everybody else who lives a life touched by the Gulf, whether deeply or not?